Wednesday, 4 June 2014

The most amazing month ever ... Longsheng. The Ping An Rice Terraces.




The flight was late landing because we were sat on the plane for two hours waiting for it to take off. We were worried that our guide meeting us at Guilin airport would be annoyed or would tell us we don’t have enough time to do what we planned. However, as soon as we arrived at the airport, a happy little woman approached us. Our guide was called Lily and she was lovely and full of energy.



We drove for two hours to a little row of huts in a car park. We were told to leave our suitcases there unless we wanted to pay 50RMB to each local woman to carry each suitcase up the mountain. I was a little anxious because these huts weren’t exactly surrounded by security. However, we were told the men who owned the hut were there all the time and even slept there at night.

So we got back in the van and drove another forty minutes further up a mountain. We arrived at a little car park that was empty when we arrived. A group of village women ran to our van and peered into the windows to see if we had luggage. Their faces were disappointed when they saw that we didn’t and then hurried off to another approaching van to see if they had any luggage.

We walked up more of a mountain for another twenty minutes. This village really was not the easiest place to get to! Lily told us that the villagers only recently had a road made near their village! Before the Government was persuaded to make it, it took the villagers hours and hours to travel up and down the mountains.

We walked past many stalls that were selling crafts. We were told by nearly every shop owner that these items for sale were handmade. Many were. However others were not. Later in the week we went to Yangshuo town and I saw many of the same items for sale there! (How peculiar!) 

Once again, I realised I wasn’t as fit as I once was! (Too much Chinese food!) We saw the following day that it is possible to sit in a chair and be carried up the mountain! Who wants to miss the experience of huffing and puffing up and down a mountain on a hot day though right?? Those people are missing out!! The little old women literally carry your suitcases in wooden baskets on their backs!! Poor women!!



Once we reached the village we went to see our hotel. I was so impressed by my dad’s hotel bookings! We had gone from an extravagant hotel in Beijing and a greatly impressive apartment in Shanghai to a very simple and traditional wooden home up in the mountains. Even though it was basic, it was still very comfortable and perfectly fine!

We went to another hotel to eat in the evening. After we finished eating, Lily came over and was amazed at how much we had ordered to eat. (We had ordered nine dishes between the four of us). To be fair, we were hungry and ate most of it. We made a family decision however that we should stop ordering rice because it just fills us up! Lily was also shocked at how much we had spent. (We spent probably around the equivalent of £25. (This included some beer). This was apparently an expensive meal!

There were no lights in the village at night and so we had to use torches on our phones to find our way back to our hotel. We were nervous about the weather. It had been raining the day we arrived and there was mist. There was supposed to be more rain and mist to come. The following day we wanted to go on a five hour hike but this did not look promising. We didn’t want to walk for hours if we weren’t going to see any of the views. We decided to wait until morning to make the final decision about what to do. Lily said, up in the mountains, no one can predict the weather.



It was so peaceful and quiet and my sister and I were about to fall asleep in the peacefulness of the night when suddenly…..music was heard in the distance. This was then followed by a lot of yelling (I assume drinking games were in full swing). I found this so funny! I thought this would be a quiet village in the mountains. It was…but it was also a backpacking area and therefore, backpackers need some entertainment at night!

I was asleep before I could even consider going to investigate what was going on!

The next day we were up bright and early, praying for some good weather. We decided to go on a shorter trek. It would only take two or three hours. Instead of hiking to another village, we decided to trek around the same village in one big circle.



So off we went. We walked past more handmade (or not) stalls and a place to dress up in traditional costumes for the equivalent of £1. There were many, many tourists in this part. For some reason though, all the tourists stopped at a certain point. Lily said it was perhaps due to the fact that they had no time because they were group tours. We continued onwards and found that before long, we were the only ones walking in the forests and mountains.





I therefore advise, if ever you visit the Ping An Rice Terraces, to keep walking as far away from the tourists as possible! Also, it is far better to go to places like this with a personal tour guide rather than as a tour group!

We were so lucky! The weather, as though by magic, just cleared up before our very eyes!




The views are spectacular! It must be so beautiful when it snows and when the greenery blooms during Spring time! The rice fields on the Dragon Backbone Terraces rise up to 1000 metres high. It’s so hard to work out how they have built them up the hillsides and that they are scattered everywhere among the minority villages!





We walked past a native woman from a neighbouring village who walks for hours to sell things to tourists. She offered to show us her hair for 10RMB, (£1). We were intrigued and so we gave her the money. These women are literally living Rapunzels!



This old woman unwrapped her hair from the top of her head and it fell down to the ground. She pulled away two separate parts of hair that had been cut when she was younger.






This woman was a Yao minority from a neighbouring village. The people in the Ping An village (where we stayed for a night) were of the Zhuang minority.

There are around 55 ethnic minorities living in China. Lily was of the Zhuang minority.

From now on, I call myself a minority within the UK. That’s how I now describe myself to the Chinese!!!

The houses in the village were unique wooden houses built up the mountainsides. There was a lot of building going on (as there is in every other part of China)! Lily said that it was a shame because gradually, the traditional wooden homes were turning into cement! There was one specific wooden house over a hundred years old! (The smaller one in the picture!)



People work so hard in the rice fields! They continue working until they are very old! I’m sure we saw people in their eighties or nineties still working hard in the fields and the village!!






We passed many women on the roadside cooking a speciality…a rice meal barbecued inside bamboo sticks. We wanted to try some but I did wonder how we’d eat them!




This was such a great experience! It was amazing to see a really traditional area of China and it was refreshing to see such basic living without mobile phones everywhere!



However, I can't help but worry that tourism will destroy the area! It's so beautiful. There are already too many tourists!! 


My next blog post will be on Yangshuo... 

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